A “budino” is a pudding or mousse that can be sweet or savory. This chicken liver mousse was inspired by the Tuscan antipasto of chicken livers on toast, Crostini di Fegatini.

In a small bowl, combine the juniper berries and Marsala, and set aside. Line a 4-cup crock or loaf pan with wax paper.

In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over low heat and add the onion. Cook until the onion is very soft and starting to brown, about 30 minutes. Add the garlic, sage and thyme to the onion and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, combine the celery, peppercorns, bay leaves and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the liquid, discard the solids and return the liquids to the pan. Bring to a simmer and add the chicken livers. Poach the livers gently until pink inside, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove the livers and discard the poaching liquid.

In a food processor, puree the liver and onion mixture. Add the cream, lemon zest, salt and pepper and process for 5 seconds. Put the liver mixture in a bowl, place a sheet of wax paper directly on the surface of the mixture and set aside.

When the liver mixture has cooled to room temperature, put in a food processor. With the motor running gradually add the butter in small pieces until well combined. Add the juniper berries and Marsala and process with a one 5 second pulses. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Cover the Budino with a plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours or until it is set. (The budino can be stored this way for 3 to 4 days.)

Serve in ceramic crock or unmold by placing the loaf pan for 3 to 4 seconds in hot water deep enough to reach the top of the pan. Invert the pan onto a serving plate, remove the pan and the wax paper. Keep the budino covered and refrigerated until serving time.

Makes 16 servings.